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| trout with polenta, kale and horseradish foam |
Restaurant: The Owl
Style: Seasonal & Daily Menus, Tapas
Price: $7 - $10 per dish
If you live nearby, and care anything at all about food, chances are you've heard the buzz surrounding Greenville's latest culinary experiment. Located in an old Pizza Hut on Wade Hampton Boulevard, just as you've begun to leave the glowing lights of the city, sits The Owl.
You might drive right past it even when you are looking for it. We did. The signage is minimal, just a small cartoon owl attached to the side of a brick building - which still looks like a Pizza Hut. The parking lot isn't in the best shape and neither is the outside patio (not currently in use). Both things their facebook page promises will change. We were warned not to be surprised by the casual atmosphere, and the laid-back attitudes of the wait staff. But, we were told to keep an open mind, because the food was worth it.
Upon entering, the buzz of the place was intoxicating. Every table was full, and those that were not had a large tented, hand-written sign that read the name and time of the expected party. Already a good sign. We made reservations earlier in the day and were seated immediately, though they encourage others to be patient (or sit at the bar) due to the occasional overwhelming crowd.
The decor was simple but charming, with a slightly vintage-diner feel accented by the triangle-shaped floor to ceiling windows. The lighting could have been warmer, and I could have done without seeing the wait staff's purses and personal belongings strewn across the floor in the corner of the dining room (next to the dehumidifier), but it was easy to look past these things and sink into the hustle and bustle of the evening.
Our waiter was friendly and came immediately with recommendations for cocktails as, according to him, there were non other like them in the city thanks to the creative minds behind the bar. My sea-foam margarita did not disappoint. An ice cube or two might have helped, especially given the stuffy temperatures of the restaurant on this particular night, but the surprise of the salty, sea-water foam provided just the right balance to the perfectly sweet but not-too-sour margarita. Our curiosity led us to question the waiter on the Sun 'Shine cocktail using moonshine from the local Dark Corner Distillery. Without hesitation, he brought us a sample and as we relished in his generosity, a sip of the drink caught us off-guard. The sweetness of the pineapple hid the harshness of the moonshine and left a pleasant flavor lingering on our lips. Unexpected, but welcomed.
Sea-foam Margarita
The frequently-updated, tapas-style menu was small, with 4 different pork variations (including sweetbreads and belly) and a trout dish as the only protein options. The cheese, tofu and salad dishes are all good signs for vegetarians and we also had a gluten-free guest in tow who had a few different options to choose from. The daily specials board offered Salt Cod and Pasta Puttanesca, but sadly, the Salt Cod sold out by the time we ordered. The prices were more than pleasant, with nothing on the menu over $10, which was not a surprise given their advertised slogan "fine-dining for the working class."
The table-favorite of the night was the pork curry dish: tender pulled pork lightly flavored with curry and wrapped in a thin pasta sheet, similar to cannelloni. It was accompanied by a coconut vanilla foam, diced pineapple and a basil gel which all brought the dish together. The cheese dish, was beautifully presented and while the texture of the crispy crostini complemented the soft, fresh ricotta, I was missing the salty flavor that ricotta typically lends.
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| pork curry with coconut foam, pineapple and basil gel |
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| fresh ricotta with crostini, fava beans and honey |
The pork belly with grilled golden raisins was rich and delicate, and the pulled pork dish with peaches and a spicy chili sauce was some of the best "barbeque" I've had in a long time.
I had heard of the open-kitchen concept and the encouragement by Executive Chef and Owner, Aaron Manter, for honest feedback, so when the trout dish with horseradish foam came out dry and over-cooked, I let our waiter know. He immediately offered to comp the dish and within minutes, Chef Aaron was out of the kitchen and at our table apologizing for the error and letting us know a new trout dish, cooked correctly this time, would be out shortly. It was, and he immediately checked back to make sure it did not disappoint. It did not, although the horseradish flavor in the foam was lost in the dish.
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| pork curry with chili sauce and peaches |
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| pork belly with black garlic, grilled golden raisins and green beans |
Even though we were stuffed, we managed to finish the meal off with a velvety-rich chocolate truffle, served with raspberry sauce and salted peanuts. A wonderful way to satisfy our happy palates. It should have come with no surprise that our "check" was served to us via iPad, which made for a quick and easy pay-at-the-table experience.
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| chocolate truffles with raspberry and salted peanuts |
The Owl's staff of "food scientists" have something going for them. They offer a truly unique experience for anyone that loves or appreciates food, taking the stuffiness out of a fine dining experience, and leaving the good food and creative presentation that you remember long after you leave. So, keep an open-mind, look past the growing pains of a restaurant on the verge of greatness and allow yourself to experience a culinary journey like no other in the Greenville area at The Owl.
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| The summer menu at The Owl |